Chocolate Ermine “Pudding” Buttercream Recipe on Food52 (2024)

American

by: Erin Jeanne McDowell

July3,2021

3

4 Ratings

  • Prep time 5 minutes
  • Cook time 5 minutes
  • makes 4 cups (enough to fill and frost one 8- or 9-inch cake (up to 3 layers) or 24 cupcakes

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Author Notes

I used to call this “pudding buttercream” before I knew it’s true name: ermine. This technique involves preparing a simple pudding-style custard base, then whipping butter into it to create the final frosting. This method has become one of my go-tos, because it allows for a really creamy frosting that’s thick and pipable, but also not too sweet. Be sure to let the pudding base cool to room temperature before whipping in the butter, but don’t be tempted to refrigerate it to speed it up. If it gets even a bit cold, it will make the frosting likely to split. If you’re in a hurry, pour the pudding onto a baking sheet—the greater surface area will allow it to cool much faster. —Erin Jeanne McDowell

Test Kitchen Notes

Bake It Up a Notch is a column by Resident Baking BFF Erin Jeanne McDowell. Each month, she'll help take our baking game to the next level, teaching us all the need-to-know tips and techniques and showing us all the mistakes we might make along the way. Today, a very sweet lesson in all things frostings, icings, and glazes. —The Editors

  • Test Kitchen-Approved

What You'll Need

Watch This Recipe

Chocolate Ermine “Pudding”Buttercream

Ingredients
  • 1 3/4 cups(398 grams) granulated sugar
  • 3/4 cup(90 grams) all purpose flour
  • 1/3 cup(28 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 1 teaspoon(5 grams) instant espresso powder (optional)
  • 1/2 teaspoon(2 grams) fine sea salt
  • 2 cups(460 grams) whole milk
  • 1 pound(454 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 1 tablespoon(15 grams) vanilla extract
Directions
  1. In a medium pot, whisk the granulated sugar, flour, cocoa powder, espresso powder (if using), and salt. Whisk in the milk.
  2. Begin to heat the mixture over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and becomes pudding like, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a heat-safe storage container, cover directly with plastic wrap, and let cool to room temperature.
  3. Place the butter in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whip on medium-high speed until the mixture is light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. With the mixer running, add the room temperature pudding mixture 1 heaping tablespoon (about 25 grams) at a time, mixing until each is fully incorporated before adding the next.
  4. Once all of the pudding base is incorporated, add the vanilla extract and mix to combine.

Tags:

  • American
  • Dessert

See what other Food52ers are saying.

Recipe by: Erin Jeanne McDowell

I always have three kinds of hot sauce in my purse. I have a soft spot for making people their favorite dessert, especially if it's wrapped in a pastry crust. My newest cookbook, Savory Baking, came out in Fall of 2022 - is full of recipes to translate a love of baking into recipes for breakfast, dinner, and everything in between!

Popular on Food52

4 Reviews

rearaerich October 11, 2022

I tried this ratio and ended up with a soupy mess. Shouldn't 2 cups of milk and close to 2 cups of sugar reqire more like 2 lbs of butter for the right ratio and consistency? It could have been me, but I wasted sell that time and money for nothing, I had to start over with a more familiar recipe, winging the chocolate part. Not my usual best work. It made delivery of the cake late!! My own fault, I guess. Need to stick to familiar when pressed for time.

avyb January 23, 2022

Made this frosting to put on a banana cake. One of the best frosting I have made! Not too sweet, airy, and absolutely delicious. Will definitely be making this again. I used instant coffee instead of espresso powder - next time I would use a little less since the coffee flavor was more forward than I wanted.

Chris August 1, 2021

Professional baker here—1 3/4 C sugar is not 398g (that would be closer to 2 cups). The actual weight is closer to 350g. I always follow recipes as written the first time through, and I found this frosting to be unpalatably sweet. I add 2/3 C more of Dutch processed cocoa powder to temper the sweetness. Five grams of espresso powder is also too much and makes the frosting taste like coffee.

Two grams is enough to enhance the flavor of the chocolate without adding a pronounced coffee flavor.

Finally, I've never made a flour-thickened pudding that took only 2-3 minutes to thicken. This took 5-6 minutes on medium heat. You have no go by texture, not time.

If the editor fixes the instructions, I don't doubt the frosting will be delicious. The texture is fantastic.

pattycakes June 17, 2021

I can't wait to try it and see how it differs in taste from the way I've been making it. My ermine frosting is very popular, but it's made so differently (& I have a feeling it's wrong lol). I've just been cooking the milk & flour until a thick paste (it cools & plops into the butter almost like gelatin), & creaming the butter & sugar - all with a paddle attachment and beating med/ high for 10 min. Idk how it turns out so good lol, but i bet your's is better. I'm trying it today!

Chocolate Ermine “Pudding” Buttercream Recipe on Food52 (2024)

FAQs

Chocolate Ermine “Pudding” Buttercream Recipe on Food52? ›

If your buttercream ends up with a grainy texture, don't worry. There are simple steps you can take to fix it. Usually it is grainy from the sugar not dissolving into the butter properly. One easy fix is to re-whip the frosting, preferably with the paddle attachment, on medium speed until it becomes smoother.

Why is my Ermine buttercream grainy? ›

If your buttercream ends up with a grainy texture, don't worry. There are simple steps you can take to fix it. Usually it is grainy from the sugar not dissolving into the butter properly. One easy fix is to re-whip the frosting, preferably with the paddle attachment, on medium speed until it becomes smoother.

Why is my Ermine buttercream runny? ›

If it's a warm day, the butter may have been too warm before mixing, causing the frosting to become less stable. Softened butter should land around 65 to 70°F for best results. Take care to cool your flour mixture completely before whipping into the butter to avoid warming the mixture as well.

How stable is Ermine buttercream? ›

This buttercream is stable enough to stack and cover cakes with but maybe avoid intricate piping with it – its fluffiness and softness doesn't lend well to extremely detailed piping tips but large round or star tips are fine. You can find our foolproof recipe for ermine frosting HERE.

What does Ermine buttercream taste like? ›

Ermine Buttercream

The texture and flavor are light and fluffy, with a mild sweetness and buttery flavor. Interestingly, although it seems more lightweight, it is also one of the strongest in temperature and pressure stability out of all the buttercreams I tested in this article.

Is ermine frosting better than buttercream? ›

Ermine buttercream

Pros: Very smooth and simple to make. It's a great compromise if AMBC is too sweet and gritty for you, but meringue-based buttercream seems too difficult to make or you want to avoid eggs in your frosting. It holds up well in warm conditions, pipes easily and can be used under fondant.

Why is my ermine frosting not smooth? ›

If you've completed the recipe and your mix still looks a little lumpy or grainy, mix a bit more until it becomes smooth. You can over-whip it, though so watch for that. Overwhipping can cause the butter to soften too much; to avoid that chill it in the fridge.

How do you fix curdled ermine frosting? ›

Troubleshooting: If the frosting feels dense, stiff, greasy, or curdled, it is likely too cold; to warm, briefly set over a pan of steaming water, just until you see the edges melting slightly, then re-whip.

What buttercream do professional bakers use? ›

Swiss meringue buttercream is probably the most standard buttercream for pastry professionals. It is incredibly smooth, making it an extremely popular choice for icing cakes.

What is the hardest buttercream to make? ›

Italian Meringue Buttercream is the most difficult buttercream to make. If you are familiar with Italian meringue, you'll understand that it involves boiling sugar and then whisking egg whites into this piping hot syrup. Because of the high temperatures involved, we only recommend it to the more advanced cake artists.

Is Ermine buttercream good for piping? ›

If you're used to other types of buttercream, you may notice that this frosting is looser. Don't let that deter you; it's normal and will still pipe and frost a cake just fine. Remember that it has a lower butter content than my other buttercreams, so it will feel less dense.

What is the most delicious buttercream? ›

1. Swiss Meringue Buttercream. This is the Queen of Frosting. Imagine the melt-in-mouth texture of ice cream, just at room temperature.

Why did my ermine frosting break? ›

Troubleshooting Ermine Frosting

When it's hotter than 70°F, the frosting softens and will appear greasy, you should refrigerate it if that is the case. Frosting curdles: There's too much moisture, causing the butter to “break.” Frosting is greasy: This frosting is sensitive to heat.

What are other names for ermine frosting? ›

Ermine frosting is made from a cooked milk and flour paste. It's also known as milk frosting, flour frosting, flour buttercream, and American buttercream—though it's not to be confused with the sugary, egg-based frosting of the same name.

How do you fix gritty buttercream? ›

Take 1/4 of the buttercream out and microwave it until it melts into a liquid and is no longer gritty (or heat it in a Bain Marie aka double boiler). Pour the liquid buttercream back into the rest and whip it up. The heat should melt those residual sugar crystals.

What are the pros and cons of Ermine buttercream? ›

A bit more time than American Buttercream, but still fairly easy to make. Pros: Doesn't involve the use of a candy thermometer or eggs. Cons: Uses flour, so not gluten free. Can be very soft, and doesn't hold up well to piping decorations, and heat.

Can you Overwhip buttercream? ›

Too thick: If you over-whip the frosting, it will appear chunky and curdled. While my fix isn't perfect, it will certainly help—by hand, stir in more liquid heavy cream 1 Tablespoon at a time until the frosting smooths out again.

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